Diary Walking in Pindos Pindos

Pindos

Diary Walking in Pindos Pindos

When the NKVB cancelled the "strange journey on foot through the Pindos" because of insufficient participants, we (those who had reported themselves) decided to make this journey on our own. Unfortunately Wim finally deserted because of family circumstances, so I, together with Bert, Eric and Karel took the airplane to Corfu, beginning of June 2000. Then we took the boat directly to Igoumenitsa on the mainland, where we took the bus to Ioannina and by taxi to Monodendri. It was a beautiful journey through a dense forest and a little populated area.

Sleeping near the church

The journey consisted of two parts: first through the National Park around the Vikos gorge and along the Gamila massive, a rest-day in Tsepelovo and after that, over the Smolikas massive. As we had much food with us, we left some at the hotel-restaurant Gouris in Tsepelovo. Monodendri seems to have a nice old village center. In this area voyagers can sleep near the church. But in Monodendri, the last hikers have made ruins there, so that only after the intersection of a waitress did we get the permissions from the pastor. I think that after ten years nowhere we can sleep near the church.

Beneath it is cool

The first day of hiking begins with a pithy descent in the Vikos gorge. A large board mentions that the gorge figures in the Guinness book of Records: it is the narrowest canyon in the world (the walls are 900 m the one from the other and is 1100 m deep). We follow over the valley the dry river-bed between the high rising walls. There below, under the trees, it is nice cool. Half-way there is a side branch, where some water runs through the bed. Near the Voidhomatis sources a large water stream gushes out of the bank and the river runs again. There we place our tent on a meadow, which burns in the heat of the sun. The path to Vassiliko is repaired by some Albanian workers whom we do not envy. Later on that day we are sitting between the "wild" horses and cows, very romantic.

Protected village view

The next day we get up early because of the heat at noon, and walk on high to Mikro Papingo. This is a protected village view, where still some old women stroll about in black clothes. Most of the houses are used as holiday-resorts by Greeks from the big towns. Near the church are, of course, age-old plane trees and we have a splendid view.

After a nice lunch at the local hotel restaurant, we go swimming in the swimming pool, a deep river near Kolymvitirio. Many excursionists are in and around the Vikos gorge already. But we sleep in the verandah near the church.

We are going high

Then we are going 1000 m on high to the Astraka pass. It is a varied journey through a nice field: first in the shadow through dense birch wood, then bushes and even more open field and at last alpine meadow. A large view at the surrounded chain of mountains. We 're followed by a Greek couple, the man continuously speaks and the woman jogges with difficulty behind. The next two days we meet again, very tired. The Astraka cottage is situated on col (1980 m) under steep mountain sides, which remind me of the Dolomieten. We enjoy a nourishing soup, but the sky doesn't look so nice. Just after the waitress has assured us that there will not be a thunder storm, the first lightning struck on the rocks on the opposite side, with a crackle blow; during one hour it was followed by many others.

We decided not to camp at the top near the Drakholimni, but near a small lake 150 m below the cottage. The weather looks up later, we are going as yet to the Drakholimni with a splendid view at the Smolikas massive (first photo area information) and the Aoos river in the fascinating steep depth.

Barking dogs

In the evening we make acquaintance with the well known Pindos-sheep dogs. These animals do not mess around with sheep, but concentrate themselves to walkers and other strange people, which they reach wild barking. Happily we find out that you can keep them at a distance by picking up a stone. We are curious to know if they can fight against the wolves, which people say they are frequent in the neighborhood. We are preparing a soup.

Wide views

The next day we are going over a wide plateau, with a gap with rock-plateau every now and then (1 photo area information). We descend the ravine of the Megas Lakkos in which we are looking a little time for our correct rise to the col. On the top we lunch again with the well-known wide view, only Tsepelovo is just after a lower mountain top. We arrive at the hotel Gouris under rain, and we take a nice shower and we amuse ourselves at the restaurant. Alexis Gouris is dead, his wife arranges everything with the help of her daughters, who are speaking the English. They have information, that the bridge over the Aoos river, which we have to pass during the second stage, is still not repaired, but that the water-level makes possible to cross the river.

Historical excursion

On our rest-day we see first a big land tortoise. We hike high around a canyon with splendid rock-formation. Then we come through Vhradeto della Mare (a ghost-town with rennovated center, with 1340 m the highest village in Zagori) near the old Kalderimi, a steep winded path with flight of stairs, which reminds us the Chinese Wall. The two old arched bridges (one since 1764 and an older one which has been replaced in 1804) and a view of the Agia Paraskevi monastery (since 1617, nicely situated and with a beautiful entrance) end of our hike. A small bus brings us to a fording place in the Aoos River.

Click on the foto for Panorama 1

The half hardened road at the opposite swings on high to Paleoselli and we have a nice view at the Gamila massive of the first part of the journey. In Paleoselli we have found again an ideal camping place behind the church, ...till that BENG BENG. It is evident that we are just under the church-bell. Happily it does not work during the night, so we were sleeping well.

Dhrakolimni

The route to Smolikas top is beautiful, but above the 1300 the markings disappear. As we went up over the mountain shoulder we succeeded to go through natural wood and alps meadow (3 photo area information). We are camping 600 m below the top near the second Dhrakolimni. The history says that these lakes are created by as big dragon which appeared in the mountains. There we meet a German biologist who studies trees in Greece. He warns us about wandering Albanians, who have nothing to lose. We have not seen them.

Smolikas

From the Dhrakolimni the route is further marked with heavy zinc piles with precedence plates on them. We suspect that this expensive procedure is financed by an EEC subsidy. The next day we find ourselves one of the highest points in Greece, Smolikas, 2637 m. The mountain which we follow doesn't look so agreable. There are some steep snow fields to cross. On one snow field we see foot marks of bears (there are also polar bears?)

The descent to Samarina is long, finally with many loose round stones on the path, therefore heavy. Samarina has a large dull new quarter of houses. We have a nice conversation with the priest near the church. If we "are celan", we are allowed to sleep near the gallery. The interior of the church is beautiful, but the building needs a restoration.

Final troubles

In the next stage follows the river and it is going first over a forest path. The second Agia Paraskevi monastery is closed. We descend to the river and we go on high about 500 m. A nice walk, but very heavy in the heat. And still it is only beginning of June. Obviously there is still some money of the EEC subsidy as we pass various wooden bridges which are not really necessary to cross the river. As we see Dhistrato in the distance, the path descends little by little, but changes afterwards, unfortunately, in a horrible ugly hard road. Dhistrato is a rather big village with good provisions (ice cream and cold beer). The last hike goes on a similar area as yesterday. On the highest point the EEC route marking has at once disappeared. After searching, we meet the route on a lower level. As we arrive in the terminal point Vovoussa there is a soft rain. After a long negotiation in the village tavern-supermarket we took a bus to Ioannina and have still enough time to admire the stone arch-bridge.

Provincial way of driving

Our driver seems to have a style of his own. He actually creates the turning of roads, what is not hard to imagine on the endless mountain roads, but not on the provincial road. When we arrive in Ioannina, he does not want to drive on to the center. After a long conversation, there was a reason that his car does not cope with the car regulations (a VW bus since 1950). Happily we are near a camping, which is very nicely situated at the lake of Ioannina. Fine guests are two storks. The next day, the other people go back to Corfu, but I bivouac still one day at the lake and take a look at the historical old town of Ioannina, enclosed by walls (last photo area information). At Corfu the gentlemen have rent a nice apartment near "Gouvia beach", so that we enjoy some modern beaches. The town of Corfu is certainly worth while.

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